In São Miguel, it was in Capelas that the whaling industry of the island had its greatest significance, as evidenced by all the must visit places that can be found here.
It is assumed that the whaling activity in São Miguel began in the mid-1880s, precisely at the place called Calhau Miúdo. This is where we start a walking tour, with a first stop at the set of 18 basins where women once washed clothes, keeping their eyes on the boys and men who, a little further down, would haul and dismantle whales to turn them into oil, a precious sustenance for many families.
We continue, with a view of the natural harbor of Calhau Miúdo, to what remains of Mr. Câmara's traiol, where the first whale factory of São Miguel is said to have operated, belonging to Mr. Câmara's Old Company, where the burning and storage of the whale oil produced there was carried out.
We went down to Porto das Capelas to see the old slipway. Because it is a narrow ramp, local fishing boats were required to park in a way that left the path clear for the swift passage of whaleboats that would set out to sea in search of whales. At Porto das Capelas, the old Boathouse can still be seen, a place where the boats and all the associated gear, mostly related to fishing activities, were stored.
We continue the route, passing by the Casa dos Baleeiros, a meeting point for shipowners, captains, and whalers who were dedicated to whale hunting, later also known as the “telephone house,” as it was here that telegraphic messages of “whale in sight” from the various lookout points along the north coast of the island were received. We then proceed to the Monumento de Homenagem ao Baleeiro das Capelas, erected in front of the parish church—dedicated to Our Lady of Lourdes, protector and patron saint of the Azorean whalers, in whose honor the local population organizes an annual procession through the streets of this village. The monument is located next to the Junta de Freguesia de Capelas, where visitors can view a small exhibition of photographs and objects related to the history of whaling in São Miguel.
The walking route ends with a visit to the Vigia do Morro das Capelas, built in a privileged location for whale watching on the island’s north coast, a task that was essential to the success of the entire activity.
